From Bow Summit, the Icefields Parkway drops sharply down to the upper
reaches of the Mistaya River valley and takes you through grove after grove of engelmann
and blue spruce. At kilometre 48, eight kilometres beyond Bow Summit, there is a rest stop
and viewpoint for Snowbird Glacier on the left side of the highway.
As you near Waterfowl
Lakes at the 56-kilometre mark, watch the roadsides for moose. One spring I sat in my car
opposite Waterfowl Lakes campground and watched a moose cow with a young calf trying to
swim across the far end of the lake. The mother was in the water swimming away, but her
little calf was having none of it. Each time it put a foot into the ice cold water it
would leap back and jump around on the shore like it had been bitten. In the end, the mom
had to abandon her ideas of getting to the other side quickly and the two of them went
around the long way. At the far end of the Waterfowl Lakes area standing guard over 3000 metres above Lower
Waterfowl Lake is the massive peak of Mount Chephren, known as "The Black
Pyramid" for its distinctive shape. Beyond Chephren a few kilometres and on your
right is Mount Murchison, and Mount Sarbach is visible on your left as you begin the
descent towards the North Saskatchewan River and The Crossing. The Mistaya Canyon trailhead is located at kilometre 71, and from
this point forth be on the lookout for black bears and the other large animals that call
this area home. While crossing the bridge over the North Saskatchewan at kilometre 76 in
the spring of 1996, park wolf researcher Carolyn Callaghan watched a gray wolf loping
along the river's edge directly below.
This area is known as the Saskatchewan River Crossing, or The Crossing, because it is
where the pack trains of the explorers and fur traders in the 1800s used to cross the
river on route to the wilds of British Columbia. It is the meeting place of the waters of
the Howse River, the Mistaya River and the North Saskatchewan.
Artist Milton Achtymichuk brings back the flavour of the fur trade with this beautiful oil rendering of the trappers
that characterized the early days at the Crossing.
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At kilometre 77 is the turn-off for Highway 11 to Red Deer, an excellent
route to travel in spring if you're looking for black bears, and The Crossing restaurant,
gas station and accommodation. After you've enjoyed the view of Mts. Sarbach, Outram and
Forbes from the parking lot, continue north on the Icefields Parkway towards the Columbia Icefields.
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